I may have to make some changes as we run low on ingredients, but here’s the intended cocktail menu for our final two weeks, including three new additions. This will go into effect tomorrow:
Aquavit Hot Toddy – Krogstad aquavit, Swedish punsch, lemon, star anise $8
Antigua Old-Fashioned – English Harbour rum, coffee-orange bitters, sugar $8
Smoky Margarita – Herradura reposado tequila, Cointreau, lime, lapsang souchong syrup $8
Portland Stinger – Branca Menta, bourbon, brandy, lemon, grenadine $9
Thyme in a Bottle — Bombay Sapphire, Farigoule thyme liqueur, lemon, maraschino $9
Erica’s Impulse –Brandy, allspice liqueur, lemon, simple syrup, orange bitters $8
H’ronmeer’s Flame – Rye whiskey, sweet vermouth, Ramazzotti, flamed orange zest $9
Witty Flip – Brandy, J. Witty chamomile liqueur, lemon, orange bitters, egg, nutmeg $10
Horatio – Krogstad aquavit, Cointreau, Fernet-Branca, orange bitters $9
Curse of Scotland — Ardbeg 10 year single malt Scotch, Drambuie, maraschino, lemon $10
Queen Bee – Vodka, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, lemon, honey syrup, sparkling wine. $9
On a Whim – Trust your bartender to make you something good
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Tonight at Carlyle we’re offering a special menu of cocktails featuring one of my favorite local spirits producers, Organic Nation from Ashland, OR. I was first turned on to their gin in the Oregon Bartenders Guild summer mixology competition, where I used it in the watermelon-based Gallagher cocktail. Tonight we’ll be serving their gin and vodka in a few seasonal cocktails, both new and classic. (That’s right, this is a rare opportunity to see me willingly make vodka drinks!) Stop by from 5-7 to try them out.
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I make a cameo appearance in today’s Willamette Week as the enemy of vodka:
Sorry Grey Goose fans: In the spirits and cocktail world, you’re kind of a joke. You’re being pretentious about a clear, flavorless spirit—the alcoholic equivalent of boasting about the kind of water you use in your soup. “As craft bartenders, we tend to steer people away from vodka,” says Carlyle bar manager Jacob Grier. “Generally, it’s fairly boring.”
The article is more about distilling than mixology. I talked with the author for about half-an-hour about a variety of topics, but if a quote about steering people away from vodka and towards other distilled spirits is what made print, well, I’m OK with that. Read the entire piece about Oregon’s craft distilling scene here.
For the record I’m not totally opposed to vodkas, especially ones that retain some flavor when served on the rocks. In general though I hate devoting precious ounces in a cocktail to an essentially flavorless spirit. If a customer tells me he likes cocktails with a vodka base, what is that supposed to mean?
I previously mixed with vodka for Mixology Monday with the Package Notice cocktail. For something a little more complex, see the Portland-based Krogstad aquavit featured in the Horatio.
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A couple months ago I agreed to be in a vodka infusion contest hosted by Oval Vodka. The winner received a free hotel stay in New Orleans for Tales of the Cocktail. Unfortunately I found out soon after the bottle arrived that I wouldn’t be able to attend this year, so I didn’t compete and have an extra bottle of vodka sitting on my home bar. At about the same time my friend David sent me a package that included a big bag of hibiscus flowers. This makes for a nice coincidence given that this month’s Mixology Monday theme is “vodka is your friend,” hosted by Felicia’s Speakeasy:
The theme of August 10th’s Mixology Monday is “Vodka is Your Friend.” The recent high profile bashings of vodka interspersed with a few weak “yeah, buts…” left me wondering, is vodka the axis of evil, our most dangerous enemy? While it may not be the life of the party, experts agree: Vodka’s obituary does not have to be written just yet.
Every once in a while I do enjoy vodka on the rocks, especially if it has some rye character to it. I very rarely choose to mix with it though. There’s a limited amount of spirit that can fit into a cocktail and I don’t often want to devote any of it to a nearly flavorless ingredient. If a drink is good with vodka, wouldn’t it be better with gin? Or rum, or aquavit, or tequila, etc.? Despite this, the two most popular cocktails on Carlyle’s menu are made with vodka. Like it or not, we craft bartenders have to use it.
One thing vodka is good for is letting other flavors shine through. Given what I had on hand, my first thought was to try a hibiscus infusion. This turned my vodka an attractive shade of red but the flavor wasn’t strong enough to stand out in a mixed drink; clearly I would not have won the infusion contest.
So then I started doing some research. And by “research” I mean I looked up the hibiscus entry on Wikipedia. There I learned that there are countless words for hibiscus tea, a beverage popular throughout the world and made by steeping dried hibiscus flowers in hot water. In Jamaica fresh ginger is often added. Thus an idea for a drink began to take shape and after a little trial-and-error I settled on this Package Notice cocktail:
2 oz chilled hibiscus tea (agua de Flor de Jamaica)
1.5 oz vodka
.25 oz ginger liqueur
.25 oz rich simple syrup
Shake over ice, strain into an ice-filled rocks glass, and garnish with an edible flower.
The hibiscus flavor is tangy but also very light, so vodka works nicely here. It’s a simple drink, but it’s admittedly pretty nice on a summer day.
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My pseudonymous friend at the Internet Food Association joined me for a Portland summer cocktail crawl last week, hitting up some of the best bars in town to see what’s on offer. Check out her post here for drinks from me at Carlyle, Lance Mayhew at 50 Plates, Kelley Swenson at Ten01, and Neil Kopplin, my predecessor at Carlyle, who was manning the bar at Clyde Common when we made our final stop.
For the record, the first drink I made her is now on the menu as our current Obligatory Pink Vodka Drink, a seasonally changing cocktail for people who like drinks that are pink and made with vodka. Also for the record, I’m not generally one of those people, but this one is pretty tasty.
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No, seriously. This is fiscal stimulus:
Amid a financial crisis that is cutting jobs and eroding growth, there is finally good news for Russians.
The head of the new state alcohol agency — gleefully dubbed the Ministry for Vodka by the press — is advocating cutting taxes on vodka to make the country’s national tipple more accessible, the Izvestia daily reported.
Igor Chuiyan, the former head of state alcohol monopoly Rosspirtprom, has been appointed head of the new federal agency for alcohol market regulation, or Rosalkogol for short.
Without citing its sources, the paper said he advocates slashing the tax on a litre of pure alcohol from the current 190.8 rubles ($A9) to 100 rubles $A4.50).
This would mean that the tax on half litre of vodka would be cut to around 20 rubles from the current rate of 38 rubles, it said.
There’s a health motivation for the tax cut too. The article reports that high taxes have created a large black market in counterfeit vodkas and resulted in dangerously adulterated products.
That’s not a problem here in the US, but there’s a case to be made that the most effective fiscal stimulus would be cuts in our most regressive taxes, like consumption taxes or the FICA/Medicare payroll deductions. Ed Glaeser argues the point here (previously linked on Friday’s sidebar).
[Via TMN.]
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I wasn’t completely honest when I said that I had to leave my entire home bar behind in Virginia. I actually did tuck one bottle of liquor into my car, a sample of Sobieski Vodka that arrived just as I was packing up to leave. Now that I’m relaxing in Michigan I’ve finally had a chance to crack it open.
“Spicy aromas of star anise, cream, minerals and powdered sugar follow through to a round, silky entry and a smooth off-dry medium-to-full body with a long, lingering whipped cream, spice, rye dough, and sweet citrus fade with virtually no heat,” writes the Beverage Tasting Institute. Um, ok. I’m not getting all that. But I am getting a very smooth, very drinkable vodka that’s good both neat and on the rocks. It’s distilled in Poland from Mazowse rye, and that lends a pleasant but not overpowering spice to the glass.
I’d heard a few comments that this vodka was very good for the price, but I still had a bit of sticker shock when I opened up the included materials and saw what it sells for. Not because it’s high, but because it’s surprisingly low: just $11.99 for a 750 ml bottle. Sobieski’s running a clever sort of anti-marketing marketing campaign, mocking the over-priced brands that emphasize everything except quality. They’ve come through with a vodka that tastes good without breaking the bank. Given the price, I could definitely see using this a lot in my next home bar.
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One of the casualties of my move west was my fairly extensive home bar. There’s only so much that can fit into my car and all those bottles, alas, didn’t make the cut. They’re all either given to friends who helped me move or put into storage. So if you can find my storage locker in Virginia and break the lock, you can have a hell of a party on me.
Because of this I was a little worried about the upcoming Mixology Monday. I have almost nothing on me and the only nearby liquor store in my present location of Upper Peninsula Michigan doesn’t offer much besides bad gin, Canadian whiskey, and a tiny selection of other basic spirits. Luckily, this month’s MxMo happens to be perfectly tailored to my situation. Kevin at Save the Drinkers chose the theme of “local flavor” to guide our mixing:
Option 1: Gather ingredients that are representative of the culture/geography/tackiness of your respective cities and make a drink with a truly place-based style. For example, huckleberries are native to the geographical area where I live, as are elderflowers, potatoes, and extremely conservative, closet-case politicians. (I’m just saying!)
Option 2: Dig up an old drink that came from your city and revive it! If you can find the original bar, that would be even more interesting.
I don’t know of any cocktails created in Cederville or Hessel, so option 1 it is. The first step was to find the starting spirit, and this is one case in which the local liquor store came through for me: True North vodka from the new Grand Traverse Distillery. It’s not quite Upper Peninsula, but Traverse City is close enough, and with each batch pot distilled from locally-grown rye I couldn’t say no. While I’m not a vodka enthusiast, this one retains enough of its character that I’d happily drink it straight on the rocks. A good find.
This being cherry country, True North also makes a vodka flavored with “cherry essence and a hint of chocolate,” so I picked up a bottle of that too. It tastes a bit too medicinal for me on its own, but the flavors are well-balanced.
So now we’re up to two Northern Michigan ingredients, but I wanted to make this even more local. The next step was to wander around our cottage plucking leaves off of trees, taking in their aromas, and figuring out what would go best in a cocktail. Spruce narrowly beat out balsam for the strongest and most enticing scent, so I cut off a few of sprigs and brought them inside for an infusion. I trimmed the needles into a bowl, poured in a sample amount of vodka, and let it sit over night.
The result? Very strong, true spruce flavor and aroma. Enough so that I repeated the process and sacrificed half the bottle of True North to another batch and after several experiments landed on the following Yoopertini. (As much as I hate the trend of tacking “-tini” onto whatever foul concoction pops into a bartender’s head, since this drink is actually derived from a classic martini I’m making an exception.) Here’s how it goes:
1.5 oz True North spruce-infused vodka
3/4 oz True North cherry vodka
3/4 oz dry vermouth
2 dashes orange bitters
Stir over ice and strain into a martini glass. No, the Cedarville liquor store doesn’t carry orange bitters. Those were one of the few things I packed. Vermouth and orange bitters aren’t locally made, but with the vodkas and the spruce we have three purely local ingredients. It’s not, perhaps, the best drink I could make with spruce vodka and a full bar to work with, but it’s still pretty good and it aptly captures the taste of Northern Michigan in the summer.
Added bonus: After drinking several variations on this, I realized it would probably be a good idea to make sure that there’s nothing toxic about spruce trees. Turns out that the shoots of many spruces are a source of vitamin C and that Captain Cook used spruce beer to protect his crew against scurvy. So between this drink and homemade tonic water, I’m warding off all kinds of diseases that I have virtually no chance of catching anyway. To health!
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